HIDDEN EDEN

A bit of heaven at the One & Only Le Saint Géran and Le Tousserok in Mauritius

BY KATIE TARBOX

I'm not a fan of those who hyperbolize their beach vacations. My idea of heaven is simple: any beach with a margarita, powdery sand under my freshly-pedicured toes, my ipod, a book and a pristine view of the ocean. Cold-water sprays and tropical fruit popsicles at luxury resorts are nice, but a beach is a beach. At least, that's what I thought until I visited the Mauritian coastline.

One & Only Le Touessrok Trou d'Eau Douce, Mauritius. Telephone: 230 (402) 7400 or (866) 552-0001 for toll free U.S. reservations. Email: info@oneandonlyletouessrok.mu.

Mark Twain once wrote, "You gather the idea that Mauritius was made first and then heaven, and that heaven was copied after Mauritius." Considering my 24 hours of travel time to the small island off the coast of Madagascar in the middle of the Indian Ocean, I am floored Twain even managed to make it to this Eden, which boasts terrain from mountains to exotic beaches. For almost 100 years, tourism has been the linchpin of the Mauritian economy, and the two One & Only properties, Le Saint Géran and Le Tousserok, exemplify Twain's celestial incantations. Meanwhile, the eco-conscious traveler will be pleased to know that both resorts earned their Green Globe Certification (the environmental worldwide benchmarking program for the travel industry) in 2000.

ONE & ONLY LE SAINT GÉRAN
For over 30 years, the five-star, fivediamond, One & Only Le Saint Géran has been the grande dame of Mauritan resorts. Everyone from Oprah to Nelson Mandela has been a loyal guest at this 60-acre resort on its a private peninsula. Whitney Houston not only repeatedly visits, but often sings with the hotel band (the Queen of Sweden flies them in to perform for her regularly). During our stay, English singer Chris de Burgh got up and crooned his hit, "The Lady in Red." The ethos of the hotel is to make each guest feel "completely and utterly" at home. If your home is a palace with a finely trained staff, they have achieved their objective.

What is Green Globe Certification?

Most believers in the "green" lifestyle want to incorporate it into all facets of their life, including travel. In 1993, Green Globe was founded to create a community of travel providers who demonstrate responsible behavior across the triple bottom line of economic, social and environmental management. Today, more than 200 resorts worldwide have passed a comprehensive review including these key performance areas: greenhouse gas emissions; energy efficiency, conservation and management; management of freshwater resources; ecosystem conservation and management; management of social and cultural issues; land use planning and management; air quality protection and noise control; waste water management and waste minimization.

THE ROOMS:
Decorated in a traditional colonial style, the rooms are well equipped without being overly modern. The four-poster beds are hand-carved in Asia. The separate sitting room boasts plush sofas with views of the Indian Ocean. The bathroom (the size of the average hotel room) has large granite counters, a soaking tub and separate shower, complete with Molton Brown amenities.

At the slate-tiled infinity-edge pool at the One & Only Le Touessrok, butlers clean your glasses before you enter and exit the pool.

The One & Only Le Saint Geran, set on a 60-acre private peninsula, has been the "grande dame" of Mauritius resorts for over 30 years.

THE SERVICE: The staff is the soul of the hotel, and much like the locals, they hail from France, India, South Africa and beyond. Butlers wake you up with coffee or tea and return with sundown cocktails. In the ocean suites, they prepare lavender, orange and cedarwood baths that are accompanied by a pot of green tea and fresh sushi. At night they strew rose petals over the Egyptian cotton sheets. Service comes without asking. Clothes are unpacked and repacked. Glasses are always kept filled at the pool.

ACTIVITIES: The resort has a Givenchy Spa that has been honored with hospitality accolades including "Best Spa in Africa" by Condé Nast Traveler. You name the treatment, and they offer it: four-hand massages, pedicures, body wraps and facials. The resort also offers complimentary aquatic activities such as tubing, fishing, water skiing, and windsurfing. Tennis and golf are also available.

THE FOOD: The hotel operates on a half board basis, which means breakfast and dinner are included. Most meals are buffet style, but are hardly the usual cruise ship disasters of canned fruit and sundry unappetizing items. Eggs, pancakes and waffles were made to order, as were the main courses at dinner. The buffet provided opportunities to taste such delicacies as sea urchin, which wouldn't normally be my first choice on an à la carte menu.

THE BOTTOM LINE: Rates from $1,100- $2,200 per person, per night.

ONE & ONLY LE TOUSSEROK
The five-star Le Tousserok blends chic minimalism with lavishness in an exemplary way. Guests feel as if they have arrived at a lost village: a gong announces every arrival and hotel management greets everyone individually. Once you are swept onto this oasis, you don't want to leave.

Butlers draw complimentary baths, which include exotic salts and flowers, and are accompanied by teas and light snacks.

Touessrok's pour madame and pour monsieur bathrooms feature large soaking tubs.

THE ROOMS: While very modern, there are staccatos of luxury that stand out: purple cashmere throws on the all-white über-count cotton sheets, plasma televisions with both European and African channels, fiber-optic bedside lamps and even an espresso maker. There are "pour madame" and "pour monsieur" bathrooms that resemble personal spas with the largest soaking tubs I've ever seen. The view of the Indian Ocean was the ultimate luxury. Our room was on a peninsula, which gave it the feeling of being isolated in paradise.

Go Green: Ideas for sustainable travel

· Rent a hybrid: EV Rentals, based out of Washington, D.C., and California, has an entire fleet that contains only hybrid cars. www.evrentals.com
· Reduce your carbon footprint: An average American who takes two trips abroad emits 19,841 pounds of carbon each year. Find out how to offset this at www.carbonfund.org
· When traveling, ask yourself do you need the sheets and towels changed everyday? If not, request that the maid staff leave them.

THE SERVICE: Need a jogging partner? Our butler was more than willing to put on his Nikes so I wouldn't sweat alone. Later that afternoon, he was arranging bougainvillaea in the shape of a heart on our bed. The staff know your name, they know your drink, and they know where to find you.

ACTIVITIES: The only time I've ever wished I knew how to play golf was at Le Tousserok, which is home to a Championship Bernhard Langer course (where every hole boasts an ocean view). Famed golfers and poolside guests alike gushed about the facility. Tennis, scuba diving and water sports are available as well.

THE FOOD: The resort operates on a halfboard basis with an international buffet. Safran and Indian restaurant chef Vineet Bhatia (of London fame) plans the menu. I still fantasize about the white and dark chocolate samosas with fourteen carat gold sprinkles.

THE BOTTOM LINE: Is it worth the 24-hour trip? Yes, if you've exhausted Caribbean and Mexican destinations and are looking for something different. It's also a great honeymoon destination. Rates from $920-$2,165 per person, per night.

Safran, an Indian restaurant, unfolds around an open kitchen and tandori ovens. Michelin- Star chef Vineet Bhatia created the sophisticated menu.