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20 DAYS inAfrica

On Safari with the Orient Express in South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe

BY KATIE TARBOX

 

My dream of traveling to Africa began, strangely enough, at a doctor's farm in Poolsville, Md. I sat sipping champagne looking at a stuffed lion and lioness, little souvenirs from their African hunting trip, similar to the creatures that I had been enchanted by at the Museum of Natural History. In rare form, I was quiet while I listened to the doctor and his wife relay tales of hunting on big game safaris. I found it to be thrilling - to me Africa represented the wild and the untamed. It was a forbidden fruit; an unknown territory for me. I wanted to go.

 

‘‘Africa?" my friends said with a sense shock as we sipped our cosmopolitans. "Yes, Africa, and I want you to join me," I retorted. After a few quizzical looks, and a few more drinks, my excitement and enthusiasm was enough to coax my friend Ashley Taylor to join me on a dream trip and I reached out to the Orient Express travel compnay to help plan this adventure.

WEEK ONE

AFRICAN TRAVEL TIPS

GET VACCINATED Foxhall Immunizations, (202)362-4467, ext. 240, can review your itinerary and determine what shots are appropriate. There are about five shots required for African travel. Malaria pills are necessary for most destinations in Southern Africa.

BRING SMALL ITEMS Bring T-shirts, pants sneakers, crayons, batteryoperated gadgets and paper. Locals were more excited about bargaining with physical goods than cash. For my puma sneakers, I could have gotten a lifetime supply of hand-carved salad tongs.

BUDGET ACCORDINGLY
One hotel general manager told me, "Plan your trip, cut your itinerary in half and double your budget." An average luxury African safari for two starts at about $25,000, the itinerary for three people was about $60,000.

TRAVEL IN U. S. SUMMER TO AVOID MOSQUITOS
June to August is the most ideal time to head to Africa because it is their winter, and there are very few mosquitoes.

PACK AS LITTLE AS YOU CAN
Most of the chartered flights only allow you to bring 20 kilos, and they mean it. We had to leave our co-pilot behind in Botswana in order to accommodate our luggage!

BIG FIVE DREAMING
After injections of everything from hepatitis to measles vaccines, we were on our way and I was out of my comfort zone. I felt anxious and nervous before to the trip even though I had been to remote parts of Thailand and Asia. I bought over $300 of medication from my CVS fearing I would never see a drug store again. I even made it a point to visit my parents the weekend before I left after hearing odd stories of people spontaneously dying or being attacked by villages while on safari.
Our safari began in Johannesburg after 20 hours of flying and a connection through Heathrow. There is no quick and easy way to get to Africa. South African Airways offers one direct flight from Dulles, but it's usually double the fare of flying through Europe. From Johannesburg we traveled to a small airport, KMIA, in the Kruger National Park then transferred to a chartered flight that would eventually take us to the legendary private game reserve Mala Mala.
When I conjured up going on chartered flights, I thought of luxury, privacy and going to remote places. I wasn't thinking I would be on a four-person plane the size of a small boat that looked like it didn't belong in the air. I held my breath and closed my eyes tightly for almost the entire 20-minute flight to our camp, the Mala Mala Game Preserve. As we began our descent, I opened my eyes enough to see a herd of elephants traveling toward a river. A sudden sense of calm made me realize why I came to Africa: getting a chance to see the Big Five - the lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros and being overwhelmed by the beauty of an unspoiled country.
I chose Mala Mala, the largest and oldest of the private game reserves in the Sabi Sand Game area, for its reputation for luxury and great Big Five viewing. While many safari camps are popping up in the Sabi Sand area with unreal amenities (day spas, five-star cuisine), I wanted something more authentic but comfortable. It's an unspoken guarantee that you will see all five of the mammals during your stay.

ON SAFARI
July in South Africa is winter, and I bundled up in my warmest Patagonia fleece, North Face jacket, gloves and hat for our first game drive. Temperatures at dusk were near freezing. Even after I covered myself in blankets, I was shivering as the 16-seat open roof Range Rover pulled up with a rifle atop its hood. Our ranger Andrew, a handsome young "chap" from South Africa, took one look at us eyeing the rather imposing gun, laughed and assured us he'd never had to use it.
We traveled at about 40 miles per hour across the bush and over streams until our game tracker spotted "dung." The car came to a halt and Andrew jumped out to inspect. "It's fresh," he explained. I was never been so excited to see feces before - it meant a lion was close. Our tracker jumped out of the car, rifle in hand, walked a few yards and found prints - also fresh - the car quickly took off like in a scene from "Jurassic Park" to follow the tracks till we saw a male lion resting in tall grass. We pulled so close that I could have almost touched it.
"They are used to the cars, but if you get out, they will eat in less than five minutes," Andrew explained rather matter-of-factly. I didn't move at all as I rapidly shot snaps with my digital camera. Suddenly, the king of the jungle began roaring ... actually he more bellowed like he was in pain or constipated. Before the night was over, we had seen over 100 baboons, many giraffe and a rare monkey that looked more like a bat than monkey.

GAME TO EAT
Secretly I dreamed I would contract a rare parasite from eating meat that would allow me to lose 20 pounds in three weeks. The reality was in the middle of Africa I was eating proscuitto, mozzarella, creamy mashed potatoes and crusty bread. It wasn't Citronelle or Cityzen, but it was as good as some of Washington's finer restaurants. I remarked to Ashley that we could be the elephant viewing when we got back the food was so delicious.
At one dinner, I mentioned that my my Beef Wellington had a strong taste. Our guide leaned over and said: "You remember seeing the deer at about noon today, the Kodu?" I nodded back affirmative. "You're eating Kodu Wellington" I won't lie. I became slightly disgusted - I was devouring Bambi Wellington ... and it tasted rather good.
The camp workers ended the night with traditional songs around a campfire while I sipped a fine South African pinot noir, and soon we were off to bed after a very successful first day on safari. The rooms were luxurious, the sheets were French linens, and the bathroom was ensconced in marble. I marveled at how they were able to construct a five-star luxury accommodation deep in the heart of nowhere.

MORNING BIRDS
"Knock, knock," Andrew chirped entirely too enthusiastically for 5:30 a.m. It was time for our sunrise safari. In winter, morning safaris begin at 6 a.m. sharp, while during summer, departure is at 5 a.m. The afternoon heat becomes unbearable and game viewing is best in the mornings. Over the next three days, we spent up to ten hours a day bumping through the bush while clinging to the safety of our Range Rover. I had transformed from the girl refusing to ride in my ex-boyfriend's Hummer to counting down for the next game drive in the Range Rover.
Sometimes we stopped for cocktails and snacks in the bush, but for the most part we were traveling to find and observe game. We were fortunate enough to see the big five in one day! Sitting in a car, where the only goal was to watch animals and soak in the beautiful African landscape, was surprisingly more relaxing than being on a Caribbean beach. At night, Ashley, Katherine and I would sit under the sky and drinking South African wine. It was the most fun I've ever had.

 

WEEK TWO

CONTACT INFORMATION AND RATES

MALA MALA
P.O. MalaMala, Skukuza, 1353, South Africa Telephone: + 27 13 735 9200 maincamp@iafrica.com Fodor's 2006 Top Ten Hotels to stay at worldwide Rates begin at $1,000 per person per night.

THE ORIENT EXPRESS'S THE WESTCLIFFE
67 Jan Smuts Avenue, Westcliff, Johannesburg, 2193, South Africa Telephone: +27 (0)11 481 6000 reservations
@westcliff.co.za
Rates begin at $350 per night.

ORIENT EXPRESS SAFARIS P.O. Box 786432, Sandton, 2146, South Africa Telephone: +27 (0)11 274 1800 reservations@orient-express-safaris.co.za Rates begin at $1,000 per person per night.

VICTORIA FALLS HOTEL Mallet Drive, P.O. Box 10, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Telephone: (263 13) 44751/60, 44203/5 reservations
@tvfh.zimsun.co.zw
A member of the Leading Hotels of the World Rates begin at $200 per night.

THE ORIENT EXPRESS'S MOUNT NELSON HOTEL 76 Orange Street, Cape Town, Republic of South Africa, 8001 Telephone: +27 21 483 1000 Email:
reservations
@mountnelson.co.za
Rates begin range from $175 - $5,500 per night.

ONTO SOUTH AFRICA
From Mala Mala we traveled back to Johannesburg where we over-nighted at the Westcliffe before starting our tour with Orient Express (which has become a leader in the African safari tours.) The chic boutique hotel provided a chance to catch our breath and relax. Johannesburg, has become the de facto gateway for luxury safaris, and the city now is also home to many galleries and museums. The Nelson Mandela Apartheid Museum (www.apartheidmuseum.org) is highly recommended.
There are a few solid choices in Johannesburg, but perhaps one of the best is La Belle Terrasse at the Westcliffe. The elegant restaurant deftly combines European and traditional African dishes, for example steaks rubbed with a combination of local spices.
The hotel is a former upscale apartment building with a homey feel comfortably large rooms and separate lounge areas. A small spa, tennis courts and a state-of-the-art business center are also featured.

BOTSWANA BOUND
We traveled to Botswana on the Orient Express, which is not exactly roughing it, since the renown travel company takes pride in taking care of guests' every need. (Everything on the Orient Express safaris are all inclusive, while the $1,000 per person per night rates are not cheap, that everything is taken care of and safe.) We first landed in Maun and then connected via charter flight to the Orient Express Khwai River Lodge on the Okvongo Delta. On arrival, we were greeted by elephants playing in the distance.
Botswana is known for concentrations of large mammals, especially buffalo and hippos. Khwai River Lodge is so remote that it is only reachable by a satellite phone that costs over $50 a minute, which meant that while I safaried, I simultaneously recovered from my Blackberry addiction (I haven't relapsed since my return.)
The 5-room lodge sits on the edge of a leadwood and fig tree forest. The rooms are elegant tents raised on wooden platforms with traditional African thatched roofs. There is heating and air conditioning along with all the amenities of a modern hotel: fully-stocked minibar, room service, etc. At night, the maids put a very snuggle-able teddy bear shaped hot-water bottle under our covers. Though there were no stores for hundreds of miles, I never thought about what I didn't have with me. It made me realize the difference between luxuries that are necessities (a large walk in marble shower) and others that are frivolous (my Prada handbags).

SAFARI 2.0
The Orient Express operates safaris at a more leisurely pace than in Kruger. While some safari camps micro-chip and bait animals, or stock their grounds, the Orient Express relies on expert guide know-how. It works. We spotted crocodiles and hippos as well as a large hundred-strong herd of buffalo in the bush. Typically, viewing such large numbers of game only occurs in Kenya, which is known for its annual zebra crossing.
Our safari ended at the Orient Express's Eagle Island Camp. It's similar to the Khwai River lodge in that there are twelve small bungalows overlooking a river. Unlike camps that only offer hour-long game drives, Eagle Island Camp provides options such as an afternoon sunset marsh cruise, canoe rides and walking safaris. Our guide told us that we should treat lions like house dogs as we were tromping around in the bush.
At night, we sipped cocktails and watched hippos frolic at the Fish Eagle Bar, which the New York Times voted as "one of the most romantic bars in the world." Our evening concluded with a seated dinner under the stars. Some guests stayed up late around the campfire, but my friends and I retired early in anticipation of another early morning wake-up call.
Our good-night sleep rewarded us with one of trip's more memorable days. We traveled to a village in the middle of the Okovongo Delta where local villagers built huts using aluminum cans and then cemented them using dirt from moist termite mounds. Although near-freezing, the children wore only T-shirts. We are all impressed by the intricately hand-woven baskets the women in the village sell to tourists.

FALLING OVER ZIMBABWE
From Botswana we flew north to the Zimbabwe border and headed to one of the seven wonders of world: Victoria Falls. Zimbabwe is a land of contradictions. We were questioned heavily at the border, and were surprised to learn locals wouldn't accept their own currency, and instead demanded U.S. dollars. The current political climate notwithstanding, this part of Zimbabwe is safe - tourism is a vital part of the economy there.
The locals went out of their way to welcome us. Our hotel, The Victoria Falls Hotel is almost as impressive as the falls. It has a rich history, having hosted both European queens and kings over the years. The exquisite colonial-era décor makes us all feel like royalty and the grand ballroom transported us back to a bygone era.
There many activities around the falls including guided elephant tours (about $100 per person, arranged through the hotel) and whitewater rafting (also about $100). There is even a zipline over the falls, which my travel companions went across and lived to tell me it was "the most awesome experience" of their lives.

CAPE CRUSADERS
Our trip wound down in Capetown, a modern coastal city reminiscent of San Francisco with its quaint cafes and unique art galleries. We were able to jam a day of touring the Cape of Good Hope and wine-tastings, but it was rushed. South African vineyards have become popular destinations, and there are several vineyards that are worth a visit. One of them, Klein Constantia, was Napoleon's favorite vineyard and the only wine he took with him when he was exiled.
We stayed at the Mount Nelson, the "pink gem" of Capetown. Like the other Orient Express hotels, it has many unique touches, right down to the cute elephant-patterned toilet paper, and a butler even named, "Princess." The rooms are large and comfortable. My only complaint was that the Internet connection was not wireless.
The hotel serves an impressive complimentary breakfast and The Star Gazer Lounge is very hip (Leonardo DiCaprio had just finished his stay a few days before we arrived). The concierges help with trip planning and will guide to many downtown boutiques which sell animal goods (ostrich leather items, carved wooden pieces, etc.).

DREAM REALIZED
Before I left for Africa, most who described the continent to did so in superlatives. I was afraid to put great expectations on the trip, but it's ok, because in terms of vacation there are few experiences that are as exotic, luxurious and, quite honestly, overwhelming. Spotting the Big Five, experiencing luxury hotels and witnessing extraordinary natural wonders make traveling to Africa a rare opportunity, and certainly one of the most memorable travel experiences one can have.

 

Female lions Male lion
Female lions Male lions roam alone in the Kruger National Park, which has frequent "big five" viewing.

 

The Orient Express’s Westcliffe Rooms at Mala Mala
The Orient Express's Westcliffe hotel overlooks the city of Johannesburg, which has become the gateway for luxury safaris. Rooms at Mala Mala contain all of the
luxuries of fine hotels including marble bathrooms and
fresh linens.

 

pool at the Khwai River Lodge A view of the Kruger National Park at Mala Mala.
The pool at the Khwai River Lodge is a
perfect place to relax in between game drives.
A view of the Kruger National Park at Mala Mala.

 

Massages at the Orient Express’s Khwai River Lodge Afternoon cocktails in the bush in Botswana
At the Orient Express's Khwai River Lodge, guests can enjoy massages. Afternoon cocktails in the bush in Botswana with The Orient Express safaris.



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