Three July Days in Prague

Beat the crowds in the Castle District (Hradcany) getting an early start to tour the immense Prague Castle area, the city’s number one tourist attraction, where the gates open at 6 a.m. and the historic buildings at 9 a.m. during the April-October high season. A good portion of the fortress complex is occupied by the offices of the president of the Czech Republic, but other areas are open to visitors. The Renaissance architecture and impressive collection of paintings by Holbein, Durer, Titian, da Vinci and Bruegel in the Spanish hall are the main attractions. The Belvedere Royal Summer Palace lies within the Castle gardens, where tulips were first introduced to Europe. Take a rest near the famous bronze Singing Fountain before heading to nearby St. Agnes Convent, the city’s oldest Gothic structure, which now houses Czech medieval art and offers nightly chamber concerts. St. Vitus Cathedral looks old but was consecrated only in 1929. Its numerous treasures include the 14th century mosaic of the Last Supper, the baroque silver tomb of St. John of Nepomuck and Art Nouveau stained glass. A return visit at night when the complex is magnificently illuminated amid a festive atmosphere is highly recommended.

Overlooked by most visitors to Prague, the adjacent Lobkowicz Palace should enjoy pride of place on any truly sophisticated traveler’s must-see list. Home to the Lobkowicz dynasty since the 16th century (except for the era of communist rule from 1948 to 1990). Members of the princely family narrate the audio guide as you wander through 20-plus chambers filled with historical treasures that include musical scores by Beethoven and Mozart and artworks by Velasquez and Canaletto.

Pause on the famed pedestrians-only Charles Bridge to enjoy the views on both sides of the river before arriving to the Old Town (Stare Mesto) where the city’s old Jewish Quarter is located near the Old Town Square (Staromestske Namesti). You’ll see rows of shops and sidewalk cafes there amid the historic buildings and churches including the former City Hall (Radnice) with its famous Astronomical Clock featuring moving figures (orloj) that mesmerize crowds at the top of each hour. Do pop into St. Niklaus Church, a high Baroque edifice famed for its energetic statues in rapid motion, including its patron saint dispatching devils with his spear-like crozier.

Walk south to arrive at the teeming Wenceslas Square, the commercial heart of the city, which you’ll want to experience despite the teeming crowds who gather there both day and night to enjoy performances by a wide array of street musicians, jugglers, acrobats, dancers and the like. (Watch out for pickpockets.)

This luxury boutique hotel located on a quiet side street in the Old Town is not only surprisingly affordable (rates from $140-$350) but located within 15 minutes walking distance to Wenceslas Square and other attractions. The recently redesigned interior of the property’s two combined buildings, one old and one new, projects an atmosphere of cool refinement with black and white marble floors and elegant cream shades accented by photographs of pre-war Prague. The 106 rooms and suites feature comfortable high-end furnishings and bedding as well as the usual amenities (complimentary tea and coffee, minibars, Smart TVs, etc.). Bathrooms range in size but all have tubs and heated floors and Molton Brown toiletries.