Washington Life Magazine
Washington Life Magazine

LONDON Classic Luxury and Hidden Gems

Miller's Residence, Dukes Hotel and The Berkeley - check into three of the city's top-rated hotels

BY KEVIN CHAFFEE

THE BERKELEY Wilton Place Knightsbridge, London SWIX 7RL Telephone: 44 (0) 20-7235-6000 Fax: 44 (0) 20-7235-6000 Toll-free reservations: 1-800-637-2869 E-mail: reservations@ maybourne.com Web site: www.the-berkeley.co.uk

The Location With an ideal address in the heart of tony Knightsbridge, The Berkeley is mere steps from Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Sloane Street designer boutiques. Hyde Park is close by and the Knightsbridge tube station only a couple of blocks away (not that many guests are likely to be spotted "Underground").

The Guests The Berkeley is one of the best hotels in London and takes pride in pampering a posh international clientele that includes royalty, presidents, prime ministers and pop stars. Madonna got a special wooden floor installed in her suite so she could do proper yoga and the hotel didn't mind redecorating the better part of an entire floor to accommodate an Arab potentate who stayed for three months at stupendous cost. Otherwise, you'll see lots of international businessmen and well-heeled couples, some with children in tow.

The Draw Ultra-luxe with superior service meeting the highest expectations of discriminating guests. The hotel is essentially low-key with little in the way of lobby bustle, although there are excellent people-watching opportunities during the chi-chi "Pret-a-Portea" in the Caramel Room each afternoon, when fashionistas gather to sip Assam while nibbling on smoked salmon and delicious pastries made over in the style of the world's top designers: Balenciaga striped chocolate eclairs, Valentino zesty lemon floral crunches and the like.

The Drawbacks Restaurant patrons often compete with residents for taxis, causing a bit of a wait especially when it rains (which in London is almost every day). Guests wishing to imbibe $25 cosmopolitans in the famed Blue Bar need to negotiate with a brusque bouncer who seems more eager to accommodate the trendy crowd of Sloane Ranger, Arab and Russian regulars who smoke and carouse there until the wee hours.

Accommodations Comfort abounds in the 214 rooms (including 65 suites), which are individually decorated by top interior designers in a mixture of modern and English country house styles. Expect plush carpeting and upholstery, exquisite window treatments, superior beds and enormous marble bathrooms along with all the modern conveniences (flatscreen TVs, Internet, etc.) one requires in a fivestar accommodation. Most views are minimal, so if that's important ask for a room to the right of the hotel entrance facing the lovely square containing St. Paul's Church.

Dining Petrus, featuring chef Marcus Wareing's "theatrical" cuisine, has earned one Michelin star since its opening three years ago and remains one of London's best and most beautiful restaurants. Try the lobster Arnold Bennett or the sweetbreads with fresh almond velouté for dinner, topped off with a pineapple pannacotta with diced watermelon granité and coconut crisps for dessert, but be prepared for the bill, which can easily top $600 for two even with a low-end $100 bottle of wine. Boxwood Café, Gordon Ramsay's Manhattan-style eatery, is a stylish, more relaxed choice for simpler but high quality fare, especially the salads, lobster rolls, roast suckling pig sandwich and sugared doughnuts with yogurt ice cream.

Amenities If your idea of hotel nirvana is an indoor swimming pool, the Berkeley's magnificent rooftop facility (rare in London) is for you. Attached to a gym and spa, it is hardly ever crowded even though non-resident "members" are allowed in. A few leisurely laps are the perfect way to unwind after a long day of sightseeing, shopping or both.

The Bottom Line Standard room with queen bed, $450-$900; deluxe junior suite, $900- $1,775; one-bedroom suite, $1,460-$2,430; garden pavilion suite, $7,800.

DUKES HOTEL St. James's Place London SWIA 1NY Telephone: 44 (0) 20-7491-4840 Fax: 44 (0) 20-7493-1264 Toll-free reservations: 1-800-381-4702 E-mail: bookings@
dukeshotel.com
Web site: www.dukeshotel.com

The Location Tucked away in its own flower-filled courtyard in the heart of London, mere steps from Mayfair, St. James's and Green parks, the theater district and high-end shopping destinations that include Savile Row, Bond and Jermyn streets and the Burlington Arcade.

The Guests Old Money types - Boston Brahmins, Main Liners and the like - feel at home here, as do businessmen and diplomats who wouldn't dream of staying anywhere else.

The Draw A discreet oasis for those preferring privacy and essentially English charm without "grand hotel" ostentation. Dukes is quiet, elegant and comfortable with super-friendly staff who greet you by name from the moment you check in and see to your every need thereafter. Special touches include floral arrangements, votive candles and complimentary bottles of wine in the rooms. The veddy proper room service tea (with luscious sandwiches, cakes and scones with clotted cream) is an absolute must.

The Drawbacks Many rooms are rather wee (Dukes was once called Britain's "smallest castle") and have limited views, so ask to see another if you don't like the first one you are shown. While the excellent breakfast is on a pricey par (about $60) with other first-rate London establishments, it does seem rather outrageous that berthing a car there costs just more than $100 per day.

Accommodations Each room is furnished in the style of a particular English period: Georgian, Regency, Edwardian, etc., and features luxurious furnishings (many antique) and attractive works of art. Cushions and pillows are pleasingly plumped several times a day and the beds are equally soft and comfortable. The marble bathrooms have powerful showers, fluffy towels and robes and top-notch Moulton Brown toiletries.

The Bar While the small and smoky bar at Dukes is known as a hideaway for hush-hush business deals and the odd assignation, the Martini ($28) prepared by longtime Italian barista Tony Micelotta has given it true fame. Said to be the most delicious Martini in the world, it is poured - never shaken or stirred. (Gulp two in a row and the concoction may prove lethal.) Ancient spirits are also a specialty, and if you feel like splurging, sample a snifter (about one-sixth full) of the Lucian Foucault 1811 Napoleon Cognac at 200 quid ($390) a pop.

Amenities A small but fully-equipped health spa features cardiovascular exercise equipment linked to a cardio theater sound system, and a steam room. Beauty treatments and massages are also available.

The Bottom Line Standard room, $500; classic/superior/luxury doubles, $580-$750; suites, $800-$1,850.

MILLER'S RESIDENCE 111a Westbourne Grove, London 44-207-243-1024; www.millersuk.com Rooms from $290 to $445 per night.
Packrats, rejoice! Collectors have a kindred soul in Martin Miller, proprietor of London boutique hotel Miller's Residence (the name is apt - Miller and his Romanian-born wife, Ioana Beju, live onsite). Located in trendy Notting Hill, the hotel is packed with furniture, art and an eclectic mishmash of bibelots picked up at shops, flea markets and auctions over the years. Miller knows antiques - in 1969 he started Miller's Antique Price Guide, the first published listing of antiques prices. Coincidentally, the hotel is also close to the Portobello Road antiques district and other funky Notting Hill shopping stops.
Miller's Residence, opened in 1997, is a home away from home for artists, models, actors and businessmen who like warm and inviting surroundings, a full English breakfast every morning and gratis drinks from the hotel's well-stocked bar at any time of day or night. (Please note that Miller is also the purveyor of Miller's Gin, an award-winning spirit he launched in 2003.) The kitchen is open to guests looking for a nocturnal snack as well, and in winter the drawing room fireplace blazes until the wee hours.
Rooms and suites continue the mix-and-match vibe. Each is named for an English Romantic poet with the decor reflecting the writers' spirit. Blake, Byron, Keats, Coleridge, Shelley, Browning, Tennyson and Wordsworth all get the treatment. All the accommodations are stuffed with antiques, from a fourposter Chippendale bed in the Byron room to the early 18th-century furniture and paintings that give the Blake room the feel of a rooming house of that period.
Described as "an antidote to Minimalism" by a glossy fashion magazine not long ago, Millers remains a well-guarded secret kept by guests who stay over and over again.

 

The Berkeley’s Caramel Room The Berkeley’s famous Blue Bar
The Berkeley's Caramel Room The Berkeley's famous Blue Bar

 

The discreet entrance to Dukes Hotel Martin Miller
The discreet entrance to Dukes Hotel Proprietor Martin Miller - center, in chair - entertains during a "typical" night at Miller's Residence

 

 

One of the many well-appointed rooms at Dukes Hotel
One of the many well-appointed rooms at Dukes Hotel



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