Travel
Essential Dublin with Kevin Chaffee
If you haven’t visited Dublin recently,
you’ll be amazed by the changes in Ireland’s
ancient capital. It’s once grimy,
soot-stained buildings have been cleaned
up, grand new hotels have been built
and the streets are filled with
well-dressed crowds jostling for admittance
to an ever-increasing number of
trendy shops, galleries, cafes and
restaurants.
It’s all the “Celtic Tiger,” of course, the economic
miracle that transformed what was once
considered a “Third World” country into one
of the richest nations on earth in only a few
short years. Yes, prices have risen, and sometimes
astronomically (don’t even speak of the brutal
real estate bubble), but don’t let that deter you
from experiencing the beautiful Georgian architecture,
verdant squares, excellent theater, lively
music scene and throbbing night life.
Somehow the Irish remain unspoiled by the free-for-all;
they’re still wonderfully friendly, always eager
to welcome visitors with smiles, laughter and
a bit of legendary blarney—especially over a
pint of Guinness—any time of day or night.
WHAT NOT TO MISS
GEORGIAN DUBLIN
Take time to admire
the elegant 18th-century townhouses lining
Merrion Square (where a most wonderful
statue of Oscar Wilde is located). On a rainy
day, you can easily pass the time with a visit
to the National Gallery, where 54 galleries are
filled with art from all the major schools, plus
a major collection of works by Irish artists. Be
sure to take a walk through nearby St. Stephen’s
Green, once a common for public whippings
and executions, now a delightful place to read,
hear live music or just watch the interesting cast
of characters pass by.
TRINITY COLLEGE
Ireland’s most prestigious university well merits
a lengthy visit. Be sure to stroll through College
Green (which has barely any grass), see the
famed 9th-century Book of Kells, perhaps the
world’s most famous illuminated manuscript,
then tour the Long Library, where 200,000
rare books are stored under an incredible barrel-
vaulted ceiling. .
CHESTER BEATTY LIBRARY
Housed in the grounds of Dublin
Castle is one of the finest museums in Europe,
a shrine to the high taste of an American industrialist,
traveler and collector who made Dublin
his adopted home. The stunningly choice displays
of Medieval and Renaissance European,
Islamic, Chinese, Japanese and Tibetan work
are an absolute must-see.
TEMPLE BAR
DISTRICT
Yes, it’s full of tourists, but you’d
be ashamed to say you had been in Dublin
if you didn’t tour this funky area of cobblestone
streets between the famed River Liffey
and Dame Street. Pubs, shops, restaurants and
clubs to suit every taste.
THEATER
Dublin
rivals London and New York for the quality of
its theater, so it would be a shame to miss one
of the top-notch productions regularly staged
at the Abbey, Andrew’s Lane, Civic, Gaity, Gate
and Olympia, among others. Check local listings
and expect to pay anywhere from $15 to $40
(bargain rates!) for a ticket.
TOURS
Pat Liddy
is the city’s most charming and informed personal
guide. Pat Liddy’s Walking Tours of Dublin• (353-87) 252-6701 • www.walkingtours.ie
WHERE TO STAY
THE MERRION HOTEL
This elegant 125-room
hotel was created in 1997 from four magnificent
18th-century townhouses (one of them
said to be the birthplace of the Duke of Wellington)
with the addition of a contemporary
Garden Wing. Situated in the heart of Georgian
Dublin near St. Stephen’s Green, Trinity College
and major museums, the complex features a
spectacular collection of Irish art, full-service
Tethra Spa, gymnasium and indoor swimming
pool, and exquisite ground floor drawing rooms
where one may savor tea (or stronger spirits)
beside a roaring fire. From $450. (Tip: Rooms
in the townhouse wing are well worth the extraprice.)Upper Merrion Street • (353-1) 603-0600
• www.merrionhotel.com
THE CLARENCE
If you fancy rubbing elbows in the wee elevator
with visiting movie and rock stars, you’ll definitely
like this minimalist oasis overlooking the
River Liffey in the city’s throbbing Temple Bar
district. You might even run into Bono (one
of the owners) on his way to soak in the hot
tub in the penthouse suite. R ather smallish
rooms from $350. (Tip: Bring ear plugs and ask
for upper floor accommodations to help avoid
street noise.) 6-8 Wellington Quay • (353-1) 407-
0408 • www.theclarence.ie
NUMBER 31
With
21 bedrooms split between a gracious Georgian
townhouse and the modernist former home of
architect Sam Stephenson, this quirky B&B is a
popular alternative choice and only a short walk
from St. Stephen’s Green. The gourmet breakfasts
served in the conservatory by the super
friendly staff are definitely something to write
home about. From $185. (Tip: Make sure you
don’t get a dingy ground floor room.) 31 Leeson
Close • (353-1) 676-5011 • www.number31.ie
WHERE TO EAT
RESTAURANT PATRICK GUILBAUD
Ireland’s
only 2-star Michelin restaurant is hallowed
ground for visiting foodies who won’t
want to miss the roast Challans duck “Biguarde,” lobster from Clougher Head and other
innovative French/Irish fare served in this
suitably elegant gastronomic temple. Lunch
from $50. Dinner from $150, not including
selections from the awesome wine list.
(Tip: Lunch is easier to reserve and a relative
bargain.) Merrion Hotel • Upper Merrion Street• (353-1)676-4192
BANG CAFE
Owned by
two handsome Danes, identical twin brothers
Simon and Christian Stokes, Bang is the place
to dine if you’re looking for buzz, pretty people
and innovative modern European food. Reservations
a must. Lunch from $45. Dinner from
$60. (Tip: Excellent seafood.) 11 Merrion Row• (353-1) 676-0898
TROCADERO
“Seedy on
the outside and impressively Art Deco within” (as one guidebook put it), Dublin’s flacks, hacks,
thespians and music industry types love to dine
on the Troc’s hearty fish, steaks and rack of
lamb and so will you. Dinner from $40. (Tip:
Warm atmosphere, so no attitude, please.) 3 St.
Andrew’s Street • (353-1) 677-5545
PUBS
There are more than 700 pubs in Dublin, so one
is bound to fit your mood. Here are just a few:
O’DONOGHUE’S
An eclectic mix of neighborhood
types, rugby players and t ourists gather to
sip Guinness and hear traditional Irish music in
the pub where the famous folk group the Dubliners
got their start 40 years ago. (Tip: Male pub
crawlers never buy anything smaller than a pint
and should take their turn buying rounds.) 15
Merrion Row • (353-1) 661-4303.
GROGAN’S
CASTLE LOUNGE
Grubby haunt of actors,
painters and other Bohos gathering to discuss
the meaning of life or their next big break. (Tip:
good natured “slagging,” or teasing, is de rigueur,
especially after a couple of pints. You’ll be a hit
if you give as good as you get.)15 South William
Street (353-1) 677-9320 THEBANKTrendy
uber-bar nestled inside what was once a Victorian-
era bank. Dazzling architectural details to
admire while you chat up good looking strangers.
(Tip: Factor in long waits for the unisex
loos.) College Green • Dame Street (353-1) 677-0677
CLUBS
THE ODESSA CLUB
Your well-tipped hotel
concierge should be able to arrange admittance
to this plush but strictly private club featuring
luxe food and drink in a “tranquil but vibrant
setting.” (Tip: Overseas memberships cost about
$100, a good deal for frequent visitors.) 13/14
Dame Court (353-1) 670-3080 • www.theodessaclub.
ie
SPY & WAX
Spy’s velvet ropes ensure
that only the rich, beautiful and celebrated gain
access to its lavishly furnished rooms. Downstairs
at Wax, there’s easy entry and the dancing
gets hot. 59 South William Street • (353-1) 679-0014
SHOPPING
AVOCA
Exceptional mohair throws, and other
handwoven items, contemporary kitchenware,
women’s clothing, toys. 11-13 Suffolk Street• (353-1) 667-4215 • www.avoca.ie
BROWN THOMAS
Upscale department store featuring
high-end international designers, cosmetics,
and its own line of bed linens. Louise Kennedy,
56 Merrion Square, (353-1) 662-0056. Tailored
tweeds, cashmere shawls, silk gowns, crystal
and home accessories. 88-95 Grafton Street• (353-1) 605-6666 • www.brownthomas.com
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