Cabo Calling

The One & Only Palmilla Resort and Esperanza Resort Beckon Guests to Cabo San Lucas
BY KATIE TARBOX

Maybe it was because I missed my connecting fl ight in Houston creating a 25-hour layover. Maybe it was because I hadn't been away from the offi ce in months. When I fi nally arrived in Cabo San Lucas, it looked better than an oasis in the driest part of the Sahara. After a few hours of gazing at the rocky Sea of Cortez against the desert mountain backdrop with margaritas (blended with fresh squeezed lime juice, simple syrup, Patron tequila and cointreau), chips and salsa verde, I knew I had found paradise.

The five-diamond, five-star Palmilla re-opened under new management after a $90 million renovation with a tsunami of buzz when the resort hosted John Travolta's 50th birthday party, which brought Oprah Winfrey, Tom Cruise, Robin Williams and many other A-list celebrities to the resort for a long fiesta weekend. Soon after, Demi Moore, Ashton Kutcher, Jessica Simpson and Will Smith were pictured in People magazine vacationing at the resort. While there is genuine intrigue about celebrity guests (on my visit I spotted Steven Tyler of Aerosmith in the hot tub, most of the cast of Gray's Anatomy, and a whole row of Ford models at the pool), the resort's beauty, service and luxury are the real stars.

THE ONE & ONLY PALMILLA
KM 7.5 Carretera Transpeninsular
San Jose Del Cabo
BCS, CP 23400 Mexico
Tel (52) 624-146-7000
Oneandonlyresorts.com

THE ROOMS
The 50-year-old resort was once a small (15-room) hotel only accessible by private plane or yacht and a favorite getaway of Ernest Hemingway and President Dwight D. Eisenhower. Today, the resort has 172 oceanfront rooms with modern amenities (TV, Bose CD player, phone and wireless Internet service that works faster than my cable in D.C. - even on the beach!). Most rooms feature a terrace with lounge chairs large enough to sleep on. Amenities are impeccable, from the handwritten goodnight notes and the beach and heat protecting sun lotion carrier to the complimentary tequila bar that is re-stocked twice a day by your personal butler.

THE AMENITIES
The staff knows your name even before they've met you and will massage your feet while you sit by one of the two infinity edge pools. By the second morning, the waiters remember that you like a cappuccino with a half shot of espresso and extra foam, and it is there by the time you sit down. The resort also features a world-class 27-hole Jack Nicklaus course, which has hosted the PGA Tour Senior Slam. The concierge can also set up a number of tours including deep-sea fishing and hiking.

THE SPA
The resort puts emphasis on incorporating local atmosphere. Latin rhythms beat in the workout facilities. The Aztec Ritual spa treatment begins with a floral foot massage inside one of the private treatment villas. The body wrap includes a warm mixture of cloves, ginger and cinnamon and finishes with a 60- minute deep tissue massage.

DINING
The resort houses two restaurants, Charlie Trotter's (of Chicago) "C," which specializes in local fish and salads. Aqua, at the other end of the property, also puts emphasis on local flavors. Head chef Larbi Dahrouch hails from Washington and once trained with Michel Richard. He refers to his menu as "Mexiterrean" and specialties range from tomato caprese salad to pork chops with intense chili pepper paste. Both restaurants promote local Mexican vineyards located in the Northern Baja strip. Daytime dining is less sophisticated, but just as appetizing. Choices range from freshly made quesadillas and fajitas to salads and burgers.

THE BOTTOM LINE
Rooms start at about $500 a night in season. Breakfast for two can easily reach $80 and margaritas begin at $12. If cost is not a concern, this is a unique luxury resort that will not disappoint.

ESPERANZA RESORT
Carretera Transpenisular 3.5 Kilometers
Cabo San Lucas, BCS, Mexico 23140
(866) 311-2226
www.esperanzaresort.com

On 17 secluded acres overlooking the Sea of Cortez stands the boutique Esperanza Resort, an intimate and idyllic five star, five diamond hideaway that embodies the essence of the Baja coast. Built in 2002, the Esperanza serves as a playground for the rich and famous (Paris Hilton and Lindsey Lohan) looking for privacy. Even when the 56 casita suites are full, the resort feels half-empty and there's always a teak chaise longue to lie on or an available table for drinks and dinner.

THE ROOMS
T h e accomodations are typical of the area: red terra-cotta floors, large open spaces with oversized windows and doors that can be opened to reveal panoramic views. Luxury abounds from the goose down duvets and crisp French linens to the grand soaking tub and an array of aromatic botanically pure bath salts that the resort produces on site. All rooms offer terraces with comfortable lounges and hammocks. Rooms located on the top level of the six casitas feature their own infinity-edge hot tub on the terrace. At night, I docked my iPod in their state-of-the-art stereo system, bathed in the hot tub, read and looked at the numerous stars. It's heaven.

THE AMENITIES
From frozen fruit popsicles and aloe ice cubes that are served on a silver tray at the large double-edged infinity pool to the complimentary fully-loaded iPods that guests can use during their stay, the butlers and staff cater the experience to your liking. At breakfast, the restaurant serves complimentary amuse bouche smoothies and muffins that hit the spot after a jog around their several winding paths.

THE SPA
If you haven't relaxed enough by the pool, the resort's signature spa treatments are the finest way to pamper yourself. Located in its own casita, the spa facilities feature a steam cave, sunning garden and tranquil rock garden zen-like spaces to relax. The individual treatment houses are elegantly appointed with tumbled stone and calming colors. Their papaya plus enzyme peel is two hours of deep facial cleansing that feels like taking off years of dead skin. A number of treatments feature Corona beer, which helps to refine pores while tightening and lifting the skin. Many treatments are offered beachside and also for couples to experience at the same time.

DINING
The Restaurant at Esperanza serves as the main dining venue, which is completely outdoors and built on a large oversized stone patio. Specialties include fresh local seasonal cuisine that comes from local Baja suppliers. Vegetables are organic, and the fish is locally caught.

THE BOTTOM LINE
Prices range from $375 to $5,500. If you're looking for something secluded, remote and luxurious the Esperanza Resort is perfect.