The Dish: Amore on the Rooftop

by Laura

Falling in love with Georgetown’s Il Canale.

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By Donna Drejza

(Photo courtesy Il Canale)

(Photo courtesy Il Canale)

The minute you walk in the door at Il Canale in Georgetown, you spy the gigantic Igloo-shaped pizza oven. Made by Acunto in Italy, the oven is wood-fired 800 to 900 degrees, making the thin-crust pizza that is the hallmark of the restaurant.

When I was given a chance to get near it, I had a new respect for the brave pizza makers.

(Photo courtesy Il Canale)

(Photo courtesy Il Canale)

Il Canale’s Sicilian-born owner, Joe Farruggio, is passionate about everything, especially his pizza. He is the only Washingtonian certified by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana; besides technique, they dictate Italian ingredients such as the special double-zero flour, imported salt and San Marzano tomatoes.

Considered by many to be Washington’s best authentic gourmet “thin crust” pizza, I tried one, taking a bite with a knife and fork — it’s tender and gooey with a mouth-watering taste of creamy buffalo mozzarella, peppery arugula and sweet basil. Try the Boscaiola or the Calabrese with sweet salami, roasted bell peppers and fresh basil. Prices range from $12-$18.

When asked if most of his clients are tourists, Mr. Farruggio says 20 percent to 30 percent are Italians.

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“This is where Italians go to eat Italian,” he says.

But it’s not just about the pizza.

Il Canale offers home-made pasta ($15-$23), grilled salmon ($22), Mediterranean sea bass cooked in parchment ($24) and more. Appetizers include “create your own” antipasto platters, calamari, mussels and meatballs.

Five salads with mixtures of arugula, buffalo mozzarella, spinach and bacon range from $13 to $14. There are also family-style dishes such as “stella” made with mozzarella, prosciutto di Parma and padano on focaccia ($20).

With the exception of the Veuve Clicquot ($120), all wines are Italian, with many served by the quartino ($14-$18), a nifty little 8-oz. carafe that keeps diners from suffering the dreaded “under-pour.” Full-size bottles of white wines run from $45 for friulano to $79 for a Krueth chardonnay, while reds range from $50 for the Lacryma Christi to $145 for the Mastrojanni brunello di Montalcino. House wines from Sicily run $40 per bottle.

End your meal with any of the house-made desserts, like tiramisu and cannoli, or indulge in a dish of gelato straight from the Old Country.

A lively ambiance fills the dining space indoors. Interiors by Barbara Hawthorn are understated mid-summer night browns and greys, suggestive of much more expensive restaurants with truffle lights, draped tables, Bel Air wicker chairs and Chilewich Green-label certified finishes. The “Rhapsodies of Color” art by Bill Armstrong add the verve. A 105-seat addition is planned for the former Cannon’s seafood market next door.

If you seek a little more quiet, ask to be seated outdoors.

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Besides the romantic rooftop, there are café tables with blue Peroni umbrellas to transport you to another country — you can even bring your dog.

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Il Canale, 1063 31st Street NW, Washington, D.

C. 20007. 202-337-4444. Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m. – 10:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 11:30 a.m. – 11 p.m.; Sunday 11:30 a.m. – 10 p.m.

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